16th Century Wig Dressing

Hello again! Okay so here is the second part of my 16th century historical process – the dressing of the wig.

First a little bit of history:

Hair- At the end of the 16th Century in England, the hairstyles of both middle and upper classes had become more elaborate. Taking inspiration from their Queen  the ladies  chose to curl, dye, and pad out their hair to give the desired colour and shape. Though blonde was the fashionable colour for other countries (a trend that continues today – more hair dyes are in blond shades than any other), the English women of the era were loyal to Queen Elizabeth, and chose to dye their hair red hair was the most popular colour for women. 

The desire to have perfectly cured fiery red hair meant that there was a thriving business in wigs and hair pieces for women unsatisfied with their own natural hair whether is be length colour or thickness.

Rats – Elizabeth herself seems to have favoured curled hair, sometimes padded with “rats” – pads made of hair, shaped to help create the high styles that exemplified the time.  They are called rats because they’re roughly shaped like a rat – pointed on one end (the nose), high and rounded on the other (the haunches of the rat).  Elizabeth continued to wear this style until her death.

To create the typical 16th Elizabeth style, the hair from the ears back was pulled into a neat coiled bun (sometimes braided or padded to give it more bulk), and the hair from the ears forward was styled.  The bun may have been sewn into place with ribbons or thread.  Certainly the tortoise-shell pins of the Victorian era and the bobby pins of the early 20th Century were not known.  Securing the hair by sewing it into place is not as awkward as it sounds; in fact, the bun is more secure and comfortable when sewn in, as there are no pins to slip or dig into the scalp.  There would be no problem sleeping in the bun because most Elizabethans slept sitting propped up by pillows, as they feared.

Process:

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First I began by placing the wig onto a malleable block head – securing it with 5 ‘T’ pins. I placed the pins at the edge of the wig on the centre of the front of the wig, back centre, both sides and one on the very top of the head. It is important to make sure you know how many pins you have placed into the wig as you need to make sure you remove all of them before applying it to your model as this is a health and safety risk. When pinning the wig to the block I had to keep my design idea in mind. As I intend to use a bald cap to create a higher forehead I want to make sure I angle the wig correctly on the block as the style may not sit right on my models head if I styled it in the wrong direction.

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To view a post on making bald caps please click the following link:
https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/04/14/making-bald-caps/

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(Image source -www.leicestergalleries.com)

I then began researching for reference images. At first I focused on other interpretations of 16th century Queen Elizabeth themed hair. Which was a mistake as it is secondary research. Though it is impossible to gather primary research I can begin by viewing and analysing 16th century portrait paintings of Queen Elizabeth 1st as this is a better reference source as it is more true to what she looked like.

Once I gathered enough images I then began to think about how I would dress the wig to resemble the style I was looking for. As this look is going to be aimed more towards a TV and film I want it to be as accurate as possible therefore I need to carry out lots of research to make sure each aspect of the look is correct.

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To take some of the frizz out of the curls at the front of the wig I wanted to try a pin curling method which has been effective in the past. I drenched the curls with a water spray bottle and rolled them up into pin curls with my fingers before securing them with a flat clip. These clips were perfect as they didn’t dent the curls as some clips may do.

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I then left the curls to dry over night to make sure they had plenty of time to dry thoroughly. I then released the curls carefully – making sure to not tangle them together. The wet set worked really well as it had taken the majority of the frizz out of the curls.

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From looking at my reference images it is clear that in some pictures the hair has a lot of height at the front often in a heart shape or a rounded getting slightly higher in the centre. To recreate this is thought I would need to make padding to pin underneath the front section of the hair however this was not the case. I was able to gently back comb the hair at the root creating my own padding with the hair on the wig. To do this I took small sections and thoroughly back combed them and then used a rolling method to create a bulk at the top of the head.

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This also left me with frizzy ends at the top of the head which I could then dress into the front part of my design. Once I was happy with the volume of the wig I was then able to pin it into place. I used a different technique however. I used a fish tail clip method which is a more permanent way of securing the hair. By bending a clip at the end creates an arrow effect which anchors the pin into the weft of the wig.

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I then began to use the curls in the front to cover the front of the wig to make it look more realistic when it is on my model.

My wig is not complete at this time but I did buy some fancy assessories to add into the wig when I have completed it. I hope to have it finished by next week to then shoot the look in the Easter holidays! I shall keep you posted on how it is all coming together!

Thanks again for visiting! 

Katy x

 

Making Cloaks For Character Assessments

Hellooo! Well I have already posted about my creative hair project so I thought I might as well tell you all how I made the cloak to complete my characters overall look 🙂 So here is the link to my previous post cause you want to have a little look!
https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/12/22/creative-hair-final-assessment/

Okay so here goes!

I wanted to incorporate a cloak into my design as she spends a lot of time in woodland areas. I want my character to be wearing a typical Grecian style dress however I that would give her away if she was hiding from her prey. I researched into ways I could make a custom fit cape for my character and found many different patterns in which I could follow. I ended up following a DIY YouTube video that directed me though the full process. I am extremely happy with how it turned out and it only cost me £3 pounds to make in total.

I began by gathering my materials. I visited the local fabric shop and bought two meters of fabric which come to £2.40 from the sale section. The fabric was perfect as it was quite heavy and had a crushed velvet style to it which would give it a more luxury effect.

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I then folded the fabric in half length ways and made a 20” by 17” box from the folder corner and cut it. I then stitched up one of the longer sides to create a hood. I had to make sure it was inside out when I was stitching to make sure I could turn it back on itself to get a neater edge. I then laid the rest of the fabric out and pinned and stitched the hood onto the fabric leaving a 2” overlap of fabric (This would be to thread the ribbon through). I then stitched a tube roughly around 1” thickness which I could thread the ribbon through to act as a draw sting.

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To thread the ribbon I used a small piece of tape and a pencil as this would make it easier to tell where the ribbon is in the tube I had just created. Once I pulled the ribbon all the way through to the other side I was then able to pull the ribbon together tight to make a gathering effect around the collar. I am extremely pleased and proud of how the hooded cloak come together. It didn’t take me as long as expected and looked good of decent quality even though I had no choice but to hand stitch it.

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And this is what it looked like!
2013-12-07 23.02.35This is the same pattern just in a different colour.

Thanks for reading! Hope this helps,

Katy xx

Drag Make-up

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I was really bored one day and had been watching far too much of ‘RuPaul’s Drag Race’ so I decided to try my best to recreate a drag look just for a bit of fun. The look consisted of heavy eye make-up and dramatic contouring and highlighting. I would like to do another drag look and maybe go crazier with colour and possibly even glitter!

First I began by cleansing and moisturising my face – I’m pretty certain you guys will know how to do this but if you would like a detailed tutorial of how to do this just click the following link!  – https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2012/10/19/cleansing-toning-and-moisturising/

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Once my skin was prepared for the heavy makeup I was about to apply I would usually apply a primer for extra staying power but as I wasn’t going to be wearing this look for long I skipped this step. For this look I wanted to try and cover my eyebrows so I could draw on some higher more exaggerated ones. This would allow me to create a more extreme look as it gives me more space to apply heavy eye make-up as I naturally have hooded eyelids. For this I applied four to five thick layers of cheap washable glue to my natural brows using a spatula to smooth out each layer. It also helps to apply a light layer of powder between each layer this stops it from smudging the underneath layer. Once I was satisfied with this stage I went on to apply a rose coloured grease paint to colour correct the dark grey undertone. Finally I applied a heavy concealer and a translucent powder to set the products in place.

I then applied heavy contouring using Kryolan Greasepaint for an in depth tutorial on heavy contouring click the following link – https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/01/08/large-theatre-make-up/

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Once I was happy with the base I was then able to be creative and roughly sketch out some ideas and have a play around with brow shape and eye make-up.

combineeeI made sure to exaggerate my lips by drawing over the natural lip line to create a fuller pouted lip as naturally my lower lip is much larger than my upper lip.

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Thanks for visiting my blog 🙂
Let me know if you have any questions about the look or even if you have any tips to help me that would be great! This being my first attempt and all! 

Thanks again, Katy x

Photoshop Image Editing – Changing Background Colour, Brightening Eyes, Smoothing Skin and Whitening Teeth

Hey! From my last work based learning lesson we were taught some great new editing skills which I thought I’d blog about because I found them extremely useful. I did struggle with this in lesson but I did get there eventually! I made lots of notes throughout lesson but even then I struggled to follow them when I read over them again so forgive me if this isn’t the clearest of tutorials.  If you have any questions just ask and I’ll see if I can be of any help to you. Here we go..

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(Original image source-http://mainstreampsychiatry.wordpress.com/category/celebrities-celebrities/)

First I began by removing any blemished or imperfections on the skin by using the clone and patch tool. This tool is also useful for removing glitter fall out which is common problem. The cloning tool takes part of the picture in which you have chosen and patches over it with that chosen part of the image creating a realistic cover-up of an mistake, spot, wrinkle or stray hair.

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To smooth out the skin I then duplicated the layer and applied a Gaussian blur filter. Then duplicated the layer again to darken and then  change the capacity to around 35%. Then I merged the layers and inverted then by pressing control. I next changed the capacity again to around 40%. Finally I used the brush to paint over the flat areas of the skin to add the blur to the image to hide any imperfections such as shine and the texture of the skin. I made sure not to go overboard with the bluring as it can distort the image too much if key features of the face are blurred too much. Once I was totally happy with the look of the skin I then could continue to play around with the image to see what else I could do to improve the image.

I also wanted to brighten the eyes and whiten the teeth ever so slightly for this I used a similar method which also consisted of duplicating layers adding filters inverting them and then painting over the layers to reveal parts of the filter. I also used this method for adding a more pinky toned lip colour.

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I also made the hair look a lot thicker by using the clone tool which made a huge difference to the image!

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To change the background of this image I used a very similar technique however I experimented with the hue and saturation in order to brighten up the background to make the image more appealing. I think this is a great technique to use as it make the woman in the picture stand out as the blue hue in the background is complementary to her ginger hair. I also edited this image using the same methods as above.

I’m so pleased with the result and I think these techniques will help me a lot in the industry for example I will be able to perfect my images for my portfolio. However I do believe using too much Photoshop is an easy option! So I do try to use it little as possible as I feel like I’m cheating a little haha!  Although I have been taught these methods on my course I do think airbrushing images has become a huge problem in the industry as it is creating an impossible polished image of the human body which is near enough impossible to obtain

Thanks for reading!

Katy x

Grease Paint Zombie Base

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I started by applying Kryolan grease paint in 074 with a flat foundation brush. This colour eliminated any redness in my skin which left me with a very grey dull looking skin tone.  I then used a dark grey grease paint (517) from the same pallet to contour my cheeks, chin, jaw and forehead. I then used a white grease paint (070) to highlight the top of my cheeks to make the contouring stand out further. I also heavily applied the white to the top of my brow bone to make my face look sunken in. I also used the grey and a maroon colour to shade under and around my eyes.

Once I was happy with the shading and highlighting I then moved onto the vein detail. For this is used a fine brush and used a mixture of grey, maroon and green and drew on dark fine veins around the eyes and forehead. Finally I applied a red eyeliner to complete the base. Then your free to add any wounds, scares and blood and guts to finish off the zombie make-up!

This was the first time I have used grease paints for this kind of makeup as I used to using Snazaroo face paint which does the trick but is harder to blend and shade. This make-up could be used for both TV/film and theatrical work as it is very dramatic and effective. You could also set this grease paint base with a translucent powder for more staying power.

Any questions? Just ask!

Thanks for reading!

Katy x

Hospital Zombie Tutorial (Make-up/Hair)

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Zombie Dead Skin Tone
I didn’t want to create the typical white faced zombie so I decided to use beige and brown eye shadows and colour correctors to dull the skin and make it look tired, washed out and diseased.

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I’m naturally quite pale so I didn’t use any foundation however, I did apply a green colour corrector cream to my face as this will take out all the warmth from my skin by illuminating any redness in my skin tone.

I then used a fluffy brush to apply the beige and brown eye shadows underneath and around my eyes to create a tired ill look. I also applied a little amount of beige around my nose and lips which really helped make me look rough and haggard. I also used a darker brown pigment to hollow out my cheeks and highlight my jaw bone by using a small blusher brush to apply the colour under my cheekbones and jawline and down onto my neck. I also used the same technique to hollow out my collar bone which worked out really well.
I made sure not to conceal any dark circles or imperfections I had as they would only add to the look. For the lips a applied a skin toned foundation to pale them out ever so slightly as my lips naturally have a pinky undertone which isn’t ideal for the look I’m trying to create.

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Scratches and Scrapes
To create scrapes and scratches on my face and body I used a fake blood product called Wound Filler which has a chunkier consistence than other liquid fake blood products. This product worked really well as it self-adhesive and long lasting. To apple the wound filler I used a stipple sponge (similar to the sponge I would use for pirate beards or stubble when face painting). I dabbed the sponge into the product and then dragged it across areas of my face and body to give the illusion of bloody scrapes across the skins surface.

Greasy Zombie Hair
For my hair I used gel spray, mouse and hair stray. I wanted to make my hair look dull, dirty and lifeless as zombies don’t look like they have the best hair care routine haha!
I first dampened my hair and then applied a lot of mouse and gel spray to give it that really greasy wet look. This also encouraged a natural messy wave which added to the look. This look lasted the full night but if you do see it starting to dry and not look as greasy as you’d like just add more  water as this will reactivate the products you have already applied. The products I used were just cheaper brands as I was using a large amount and didn’t want to waste my favourite products when cheaper brands will do the trick for this look.

Stitched Up Laceration
https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/01/06/sewn-up-laceration-tutorial-derma-wax-liquid-latex/

How To Create Some Disgusting Zombiefied Nashers with Tooth Enamel
https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/01/07/zombie-decayed-teeth/

Create Your Own Hostpital Zombie Costume
https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/01/06/hospital-zombie-costume-tutorial/

Colour Vue Contact Lenses Review
https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/01/07/colour-vue-contact-lenses-review/

Thanks so much for reading hope you found it useful!
Any questions? please don’t hesitate to leave a comment I’ll reply ASAP =D

Katy xxx

Zombie Decayed Teeth

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Grimas tooth enamel, Tooth stain

To make my teeth look decayed and broken I used Grimas Tooth Enamel in Nicotine and Brown which I purchased from www.teampixie.co.uk for £4.10 each which I thought was a really good price as it’s a great product. The product itself comes in a little glass bottle similar to a nail polish bottle and it also has the brush attached to the lid in which to apply the product directly onto your teeth.  As I intend to keep this product for my kit I didn’t used the provided brush for hygiene reasons as I don’t want to contaminate the rest of the product by putting the used brush back into the bottle.

First I used some kitchen towel to dry my teeth as this would allow the product to adhere itself to the surface of my teeth. I then used a small artists brush to apply a small amount of the Nicotine colour to the base of my teeth. Before doing this I had pushed some kitchen towel under my lip to raise my lips off my teeth to prevent my lips from touching the product. Once the Nicotine colour was dry I added small amounts of brown in-between my teeth to make them look even more disgusting.

Katy xx

Hospital Zombie Costume Tutorial


Hospital Zombie Gown

Zombie Costume Inspired by Nimba creations KathrenElizabethMakeup.wordpress.com

You will need:
-Hospital gown (I got mine online but a long nightgown will also do fine)
-Red food colouring or fake blood
-Tea bags
-Kettle
-Cup x2
-Old paint brush x2
-Hair dryer (optional)
-Coat hanger
-Access to water

I first began by sticking the kettle on and making a cuppa but unfortunately I didn’t get to drink it because I had to drip it all onto the gown =( haha! The yellowy colour of tea makes the material look old and mucky. I concentrated on the neck line and the underarms of the gown to give a sweaty diseased look (gross, but it does looks good in the end!). Although the tea staining looked good I still didn’t think it was muddy enough so I decided to literally drag it through the garden haha! Worked out really well and doesn’t cost anything!

Before adding the food colouring or fake blood I hung the gown up to dry for around half an hour (you could use a hair dryer if you’re in a hurry) I advise you do this as you don’t want to dilute the food colouring or fake blood because you don’t want it to turn pink and loose the deep blood red pigment. I used a combination of red and black food colouring to make the blood look old as I wanted it to look like the zombie character has been wandering around for months trying to find food. Again I focused my attention to the neck line as it would be the most blood drenched part of the gown. I also added quite a lot of blood and mud to the bottom of the gown as it reaches the floor so it would be dragged through all the blood, guts and gore of a zombie apocalypse. I used an old paint brush to splatter the blood on in a random pattern, sometimes less is more so I only added a little at a time.

To distress the fabric further I shredded the edges and used a high grade sandpaper to ware away parts of the fabric. Then you’re done!

Hospital Zombie Nasal Cannula

close up of nasal cannula

You will need:
– Nasal Cannula (I bought one online for around £8
– Tea bags
– Syringe
– Red food colouring
– Small paint brush

First I began by soaking a tea bag in hot water I then let the water cool before using the syringe (without the needle) to push the tea through the pipes I then left the cannula overnight to soak. I then used the syringe to push air through the tubes to clear the tubes of the liquid.
For the blood I used a small paint brush to push red food colouring through the two little nasal tube to simulate a once bloody nose.

If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask. =D Thanks very much for reading!

 

Sewn Up Laceration Tutorial (Derma Wax / Liquid Latex)

Casualty Simulation – Stitched Up Laceration (Part of the Hospital Zombie Make-up)

dscf01331Products used:
-Grimmas Derma wax (Snazzaroo Wax is also a cheaper alternative)
-Liquid latex
-Glynn Mckay Bruise Gel (Red)
-Translucent Powder
-KY jelly (cleansing lotion or moisturiser could also be used)
-Wound Filler (or fake blood)
-Needle and Thread
-Small pair of scissors

For the recreation of a stitched up laceration I began by scraping out derma wax from the tub by using the back of my finger nail. I then used the warmth of my hands to roll the wax into a long sausage shape that was around 6-7mm in width and 2½ inches in length (the length may change depended on where you intend to apply the makeup).

The next step is to apply the wax to the skin. I placed the wax onto the surface and then blend out the edges using my thumb and forefinger. Derma Wax naturally has its own adhesive that sticks to the skin as the body’s temperature melts the wax slightly making it sticky and mouldable. Once I was happy with the moulding of the wax I was then ready to move onto the next step.

Next I used a latex sponge to stipple two layers of liquid latex over the wax and onto the skin around it to blend the wax into the skin that little bit more.  Once dry I added another layer of latex over the top however this time tried not to bring the latex as far out onto the skin as I wanted the edges to be thin so they will blend into the skin well. Then I used a powder brush to add a layer of translucent powder over the top to erase the shine of the latex.

Next I cut through the two products I had just applied. I first added a small amount of KY jelly to the small scissor blades to help them glide through the sticky Derma Wax.

laceration-pierce-placementBefore I cut through the products I had to make sure I knew where the wax started and ended as I wanted to prevent any damage to the skin underneath.

I then gently used the sharp points of the scissors to pierce through the latex and then cut through the wax making sure not to make contact with the skin.

Next I added wound filler to the laceration before stitching it up with a needle and thread. Rather than doing a normal running stitch I cut off the thread once I had pierced through both sides so I could use them to pull the wound back together to act as stitches. You could also add extra blood if you want to make it nice and gory for Halloween!

Thanks very much for reading : D