Hello! Ok, so during yesterday’s lesson the full class was asked to demonstrate different ways in which to block out natural eye brows. we were all split into different groups and assigned different methods. Our group was assigned the Latex OR Cap Plastic (Glatzan) method. I have often experimented with covering my own natural eye brows using the glue stick method (There are plenty of tutorials for this method on YouTube) ~I did this for my ‘Drag Queen’ make-up I shall post a link bellow! I personally found it the easiest way to cover the eyebrows however it was time consuming as you have to wait for each coat of glue to dry completely before applying anything on top of it.
When researching into covering the eyebrows with Cap Plastic we could barely find anything! Our group had previously worked with both Cap Plastic and Latex however we had never used it so near the eyes before. So after revising the health and safety datasheets we then felt comfortable and safe to experiment with the products.
What is a product datasheet?
A datasheet is a document summarising the performance, and characteristics of a product. It also includes the properties of the product along with health and safety risks and first aid precautions.
We decided to only demonstrate the cap plastic method as in theory it would be more effective. We had previously used this material when making bald caps and remember it blending really well onto the skin with acetone. Latex however has a different texture to the skin completely and personally I find it really difficult into the natural skin as make-up products react differently on it. e.g. some foundations simply glide off and gather in the creases and edges of the latex.
Ideally I would have preferred to practice coving the brows with Glatzan Prior to demonstrating it in front of the class however we didn’t manage to have time to do it as each layer of cap plastic took longer than expected to dry.
You will need:
Plastic wrap (or a clear plastic bag)
Clear sticky tape
Glatzan (cap plastic)
Glue stick jelly
Translucent powder and blush brush
cotton buds / cotton pads
Greasepaints (preferably rubber mask paints)
Brushes (to blend the greasepaint on)
Bond Off (for removal process)
To ensure we made a piece that was the correct shape we took a pattern of our models eyebrows by using a plastic wrap method. To make the pattern we began by placing a square of plastic wrap over her eyebrow and used sticky tape to strengthen and mold the plastic to the shape of her face. As the plastic is see through we were able to see her natural brow shape on the top of the plastic. Once we had drawn on the brow we then were able to remove the plastic leaving us with a pattern.
We then placed the pattern under a class tile. The next step was to prepare the glass. First we added a light layer of petroleum jelly over the pattern and added translucent powder over the top with a light blush brush. This prevents the Glatzan from sticking to the glass surface. We then prepared for the next step – applying the Glatzan.
To make sure that the brushed don’t get permanently damaged we made sure to have a cup of acetone to drip the brush in after each coat. We added each coat in a cross hatch directions making sure each coat was completely dry before adding the next coat. We also added a light coat of powder in between each coat to make it easier to apply the next coat. We added around 4-5 layers gradually moving inwards to make sure we had a thinner bendable edge.
Once completely dry we then gradually peeled away the plastic, this left us with a small piece that we can blend over the eye brows.
Tip! There is a different method however.. Instead of layering the Glatzan onto a glass tile you can add it onto an orange as this provides a pour like texture and gives it a natural roundness.
First we cleansed and toned the eyebrow area to make sure the piece would adhere to the skin. Next we flattened the eye-brow down with a glue stick – simply running it along the brow. (I didn’t add enough layers of glue down during the demonstration so it unfortunately didn’t turn out as I had hoped however, I intend to have another go and perfect it!) We then added spirit gum around the eye brow and laid the Glatzan piece over the top and blended out the edges with a small brush loaded with acetone. If you choose to use water based spirit gum, you do have the option to stick the brow down with that as it can be removed from the brow hair easily.
Health and safety! Before using any runny substances such as Acetone near the eye – make sure you do not over load the brush as you want to prevent any drips around the eyes. Also, be sure to hold cotton pads over the eye just as a precaution (you can often asked you model to help you out with that).
Next we had to use the colour correction theory to further block out the brows as you were still able to see the underlying hairs as Glatzan is quite transparent. To do this we used a combination of white and red greasepaint to create a pink rose shade that would combat the dark undertones. It is best to use rubber mask greasepaint as these are more compatible as they do not slide or move. Once the dark tones were colour corrected we then moved on to building up the natural flesh tones over the top with greasepaint and foundation (MAC studio tech). And that is pretty much it!
If you would like to know more on colour correction theory just click the following link:
Tip! If you do not have access to rubber mask greasepaint – add a few drops of caster oil to your pallet to make your very own rubber mask compatible paints!
What we learned:
- Always make sure to flatten the brows completely before applying Glatzan or latex pieces
- Always colour correct the area first to eliminate any dark underlying hair
- Only colour correct the area that needs it
- Use a gental buffing motion on top of the Glatzan
- Always follow the pattern made for your model
- Applying Glatzan to a orange provides a curved shape and can imitate pour texture
- Use rubber mask paints as they will not slide around and they also last longer
- Always remember to look at the health and safety regulations before experimenting
- And finally.. Practice makes perfect!
Evaluation / Reflection:
Although this was an unsuccessful attempt I now feel more confident to work with Glatzan again. I intend to experiment further with the product as I really like the way it blends seamlessly into the skin. If I was to use this technique again I would most definitly practice more, I would also stick the eyebrow down flatter before applying the piece as they did raise up slightly resulting in a blistered effect. I intend to keep trying this technique until I perfect it as I feel it will be a really effective way to cover over the brows. I would also have made a smaller piece therefore I wouldn’t have to eliminate the feathered out edges by cutting them down in order for them to fit better. Overall I think this task has been a really good learning curb which has encouraged me to experiment with more materials in my kit.
Let my know if you have any questions!
Thanks for visiting!