Bridal Make-up and Hair Assessment

Hello again! For another assessment we were asked to incorporate some form of postiche into a look. I decided on creating a bridal look here is how it all went!

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I wanted to take a different root with this assessment as I wanted to treat my model as if she was a real client paying me to do the make-up for her big day. Instead of creating a look which I thought was a stereo typical bridal look I wanted to find out exactly what my client would like on her wedding day so decided to conduct a questionnaire which would break down what my client wants. From the questionnaire I was then able to put together a look in which my client would be pleased with taking each answer into consideration. I split the questionnaire into three sections: Hair, make-up and general questions. The general questions section contained information that would affect the overall look in a different way for example questions such as ‘Do you intend of traveling to your wedding in an open topped vehicle?’ know the answer to this will let me know if I need to take any extra precautions to keep the hair and make-up stable e.g. setting sprays and hair strays.

To incorporate the postiche into my hair design I wanted to use two strips of weft extensions. To this start out with long strips of real hair wefts which I then cut to size and doubled up for extra thickness. The next step was to stitch the two strips together and then securely stitch on the clips which would then attach to the roots of my clients hair. As I was setting my clients hair with heated rollers I wanted to sure the extensions using a similar method so used rollers but wet set them for a better result. Wet setting would cause less damage to the hair and be more long lasting.

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I wanted to practice before the actual assessment to make sure I can combat any issues I come across during the practice sessions instead of on the day of the assessment. This also allows me to get used to my clients skin and see what makes her look her best when it comes to colour choices and which base to use. After I had carried out some minor adjustments to my hair design and face chart I was ready for the assessment. For example I added another eye shadow which had a slight shimmer to open up the eyes.

On the day of assessment I felt it went quite well however I did have some difficulties with finishing the hair and had to ask for some advice. Once I knew the way around it I was able to complete the hair to a standard I was happy with. The application of the make-up ran smoothly and I was really happy with the blending of the eyes as it had went a lot better than the practice run as it was more flattering on my client.

Overall I am very pleased with this assessment, I feel I have learned some vital tips which will help me improve my special occasion make-up stills.  However, if I was to do the assessment again I would work on the eye brows shaping and colouring as they were uneven and needed warmed up slightly but putting a lighter brown tone through them. I also need to be a little braver when it comes to applying a heavy base. Personally I don’t like to wear a lot of a foundation as it’s not something I personally wear however for a bride they need full coverage on their big day to look as flawless as possible. Another reason for adding a heavier base is to make sure any skin imperfections don’t take away from the features such as the eyes or lips. By creating a flawless base first it allows you to really make these facial features stand out to create a higher contrast. I also need to invest in a higher quality powder that does not clog the skin but can still be used to matte some areas of the face down. These are all tips I will take into consideration when I next complete a bridal or special occasion make-up.

Products Used:

Face:
Once  had cleaned tones and hydrated the skin I applied the following products
Illamasqua matte primer – Buffed gently into the skin
MAC face and body foundation (a mixture of C1 and C5) – I then toughly buffed this into the skin to really push the products into the primer for extra staying power.
Benefit concealer – Applied under the eyes and to anywhere else that needed a little brightening up. I applied this with my ring finger and then blended out with a fluffy brush to ensure an even blend.
15 Concealer Palette – I then used the same method as above to conceal to any other imperfections using the colour corrections theory.

Cheeks:
MAC Bronzer – I applied this like a contour pigment to define the facial features using a fluffy angular contouring brush.
No 7 –
I then applied a small amount of this products just above the bronzer nearing the top of the cheekbones to add a bit more colour to the face
Illamasqua Gleam (Aurora) –
I used this product to highlight the tops of the cheekbones by applying Eyes:
Before applying any products to the eye area I made sure to apply a liberal amount of eye cream to hydrate the skin and make them appear fresher. Eye drops will also contribute.
Eyes:
Benefit Stay Don’t Stray Eye Primer – Apply all over lid with ring finger and blend out all over the lid.
Virgin V Eye shadow (Honeysuckle) – Apply all over the lid using a flat fluffy brush to brighten up the appearance of the eye. This also helps blend out the other colours that are added next.
No7 eye shadow (Weatsheaf)-
Apply into the inner corner of the eye to open them up
Virgin Vie (Beige) – 
Apply into the crease and blend out using a fluffy brush
Virgin Vie (Fawn)– Apply into the outer corner of the crease to define the eye and give it a slightly smokier effect. 
MAC Gel Eyeliner (Black Track)
 –  I then applied a thin line onto upper lash line and halfway on the outer corner of lower lash line to define the eye.
Curl Lashes
Maybelline Colossal Lash (Black)
 – Apply to upper and lower lash lines.
Salon System False lashes (225) – Cut to size and apply to upper lash line to give the eyes more drama

Thanks for visiting my blog!
Katy xx

Making Cloaks For Character Assessments

Hellooo! Well I have already posted about my creative hair project so I thought I might as well tell you all how I made the cloak to complete my characters overall look 🙂 So here is the link to my previous post cause you want to have a little look!
https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/12/22/creative-hair-final-assessment/

Okay so here goes!

I wanted to incorporate a cloak into my design as she spends a lot of time in woodland areas. I want my character to be wearing a typical Grecian style dress however I that would give her away if she was hiding from her prey. I researched into ways I could make a custom fit cape for my character and found many different patterns in which I could follow. I ended up following a DIY YouTube video that directed me though the full process. I am extremely happy with how it turned out and it only cost me £3 pounds to make in total.

I began by gathering my materials. I visited the local fabric shop and bought two meters of fabric which come to £2.40 from the sale section. The fabric was perfect as it was quite heavy and had a crushed velvet style to it which would give it a more luxury effect.

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I then folded the fabric in half length ways and made a 20” by 17” box from the folder corner and cut it. I then stitched up one of the longer sides to create a hood. I had to make sure it was inside out when I was stitching to make sure I could turn it back on itself to get a neater edge. I then laid the rest of the fabric out and pinned and stitched the hood onto the fabric leaving a 2” overlap of fabric (This would be to thread the ribbon through). I then stitched a tube roughly around 1” thickness which I could thread the ribbon through to act as a draw sting.

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To thread the ribbon I used a small piece of tape and a pencil as this would make it easier to tell where the ribbon is in the tube I had just created. Once I pulled the ribbon all the way through to the other side I was then able to pull the ribbon together tight to make a gathering effect around the collar. I am extremely pleased and proud of how the hooded cloak come together. It didn’t take me as long as expected and looked good of decent quality even though I had no choice but to hand stitch it.

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And this is what it looked like!
2013-12-07 23.02.35This is the same pattern just in a different colour.

Thanks for reading! Hope this helps,

Katy xx

Creative Hair Final Assessment

Hi guys! So, I thought I’d do a post on one of my more recent university assessments. This semester we were asked to do a create hair character piece. I really enjoyed putting it together although it felt like it took me forever! Here is some images and info about the look. Enjoy! kljrfdr

For the task three creative hair assessment I had chosen to look into Greek mythology. I based my look around one Goddess in particular, Artemis – ‘the Goddess of the hunt’. I studied several aspects of the character; how she is commonly depicted, what she symbolises, how she is interpreted in mythological stories and her sacred symbols. All this research helped me build up to my final design. I had based my look on the mythical story of Artemis and Actaeon. Actaeon was caught spying on the virgin Goddess Artemis whilst she was bathing. Furious, Artemis punished Actaeon by turning him into a stag and turning his own hunting dogs against him. I liked the idea of Artemis taking the antlers from Actaeon body and mounted them upon her head as a trophy. To interpret them into the hair I wanted it look like her natural hair had gradually grown around the antlers entwining with her hair.  As for the rest of the hair I had bounced back and forth from different ideas but eventually come to a decision of making the hair look as natural and earthy as possible; incorporating dreadlocks, braids, and matted textured hair. To blend all these aspects together I wanted to incorporate foliage to keep it natural and earthy looking. Another idea I was unsure about what of how I was going to incorporate ‘the Goddess of light’ aspect to my final design. I stumbled across some foliage which had little LED lights entwined through it. I was worried that it was going to look too festive and out of place however when I tried it out on myself I really liked the effect. Also I thought it would be good for a theatrical performance as it would be really interesting on stage.

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For the make-up I wanted to create something strong yet graceful and natural. I decided to emphasis the eyes to highlight her fierce eyes as she stalks her prey whilst hunting. As my look was for theatre I wanted to take what I had learned from the first year and do a full coverage and a heavy contour, making the facial features stand out. As for the colours I wanted to stick the earthy colour scheme so I decided to use a mauve colour alongside a deep burgundy to compliment the green in the costume and hair.

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I wanted to make a full costume for my character to complete the look. I visited the local fabric shop and bought two meters of cream fabric to make a wraparound Grecian style dress and two meters of thick earthy green fabric to make into a cloak. I looked at several tutorials to figure out how to stitch it together as best I could. I was really pleased with how the costume came out as I feel the fabrics were suited to my design. I also wanted to make a bow and arrow prop as the one I had ordered online was not suitable for my character as it looked to cartoon like so I made my own from sticks and parcel sting. I also used left over straps of fabric to act as the riser it also makes the bow look more decorative. I thought the prop worked really well as it give my model something to work with on the shoot.

On the day of assessment I was fully prepped and ready to put my look together as I had had a few dress rehearsals at home. I first began by braiding the two sides of the hair and pulling the rest of the hair back to keep it out of the way whilst I was doing the make-up. The application of the make-up went really well as I was extremely pleased with it. However I did struggle on the lip colour as the product I had practiced with did not suit my model so I had to improvise and I was not entirely happy with the shade I had chosen. I would perhaps use a plump shade as opposed to a pink however this may clash with the eye make-up.

As for the head piece I found it harder to secure it onto my model although I had made the size of the head piece adjustable to allow it to fit properly. I would like to have used stronger wire to make the antlers more stable as they moved when my model shook her head although they were secured onto her head well they still had too much movement for my liking.

I received positive feedback however I need to work on choosing a lip colour to fit my design. Also I think I should have tried to disguise the plastic foliage with natural leaves to try and make it less fake looking however, fake foliage would most likely be used in theatre for easiness as it can be reused and stays the same which is good for continuity. I did try doing the look with dead autumn coloured leaves however it looked too bland so I think the green adds the pop of colour it needed. Overall I am pleased with how my final look come together as I was happy with the overall look; hair, make-up, props and costume. I managed my time well as it took me exactly two hours to complete the look and was on time for my photo-shoot slot.

Products used (Make-up):

Face:
Illamasqua Matte Primer – Buffed into cleansed and tones skin
MAC studio tech NC15– Buffed into the skin to warm up the skin tone a considerable amount this product also gives a full coverage flawless cover.
Kryolan Greasepaint supra color pallet (7W, Ng1, NG2) – Apply a dark brown to create a heavy contour down the side of the nose under the chin, cheek bones and jaw and blend into the neck. Also work a little of dark brown under the tip of the nose and into the temples and around the forehead to give the face definition.
Kryolan Greasepaint supra color pallet (1W, 3W)– Light peachy tones to use as highlighter on the top of the cheeks and jaw line, across the forehead down the nose and on the chin. Emphasis the eyebrows by using a lighter tone above the outer part of the brow and on the brow bone.
No 7 blusher (Coral Flush) – Apply small amount on top of the dark contour with a fluffy blush brush
Illamasqua gleam (Aurora) – Buff a small amount onto the tops of the cheekbones
Illamasqua Translucent Powder – Press onto skin using powder puff

Eyes:
Benefit Stay Don’t Stray- Apply evenly all over lid as a base
MAC orb – Apply all over the lid with flat fluffy brush to brighten up the eye
MAC Embark – pat onto the crease and blend out with fluffy brush. Bring the product down the side of the nose and out into the temple to create a winged eye effect. Add more if needed to darken the eyes further.
Body shop Iced body powder (apricot) – Apply under the inner corners of the eyes
No7 eye shadow (weatsheaf) apply to centre of the lid and in the inner corners of the eyes to open them uo
Barry M eyeliner cream – apply to lower waterline
Maybelline Colossal Lash (Black) Apply to upper and lash lines

Brows:
Use a spooly to brush the natural brows upwards. Then apply a clear mascara to keep the hairs in place. Once happy with the placement of the brows fill in with colour suitable for model I intend to use MAC eye shadows in Era and Concrete.

Lips:
MAC Lip liner (whirl) – define lips up to the natural lip line
Benefit (nice knickers) apply to the centre of lips

Thanks for visiting my blog!  Merry Christmas!
Katy x

Special Effects Silicone Prosthetic Final Assessment

Hi! Here is a general summary of the process of creative and colouring my final prosthetic piece.

During this semester we were asked to carry out several tasks in order to create a custom fit silicone prosthetic piece. At first I was unsure of what category I was going to base my prosthetic on. I finally decided to base it on a fantasy Frankenstein’s monster themed character. However I didn’t want to simply copy so I decided to change my characters story. Once I was completely happy with my character profile I then sculpted my design and completed the casting process to create my prosthetic. I was initially pleased with how it came out however; I noticed that my feathered smoothed out edges that I had previously sculpted were redundant as the cast come out as a full face and did not separate the two separate pieces. To combat this next time I would create a clay barrier around my sculpted pieces allowing the silicone to drain evenly creating a thinner edge for me to blend away on the skin.

KathrenElizabethMake-upFaceCasting (79) I had no other option but to cut the two pieces out with scissors and work on blending the edges directly on the face. Before cutting I used oil paint and silicone to pre-paint the piece. This wold save time and also makes the colour permanent.

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Once I was happy with the pre-painting of the piece I was then ready to begin the next process. As I had sculpted over my models natural eye brow I wanted to punch one in using the techniques I had learned with Sue Day. I was really pleased with how this looked as I had previously practiced on spare pieces of silicone. I had looked into how eyebrow hair grew naturally and noticed there was a strange pattern which made the hair grows almost in a pointed ‘V’ pattern.

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It was important that I punched the hair previous to applying the piece as this is a health and safety risk as the punching tool is quite sharp. Another effect I wanted to try was stitching into the silicone. This would create a more realistic effect rather than simply sticking stitches directly onto the prosthetic. It was surprisingly easy to stitch through the silicone which I was pleased to find.

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Once my prosthetic was fully prepped I was ready to begin. I adhered the prosthetic to the skin using pros-aide which I applied directly onto the skin and onto the back of the prosthetic leaving out the edges. It stayed in place really well allowing me to then glue down the edges separately to get a better fit. Once the pieces were glued onto the face securely I then used Cabosil which I had previously mixed with Pros-aide in the special effects studio. Whilst mixing the Cabosil I made sure to take all the health and safety precautions including wearing a respirator to prevent the light fibres from entering my lungs. I also made sure to place the tub of Cabosil under the extractor fan as an extra precaution. I then used a metal spatula to smooth it over the edges of my prosthetic. This worked really well however I found I had to reapply the product to some places as the Cabosil had shrunk whilst it was drying. Once that had completely dried I was then able to start applying paint over the top to further blend the edges. Unfortunately I only have greasepaints in my kit so I used a small amount of castor oil to make the greasepaints easier to work with as it allows the paint to glide smoothly over the silicone easily almost like the rubber mask paint. I also used Skin Illustrators to give the effect of different skin tones. I used a stippling and splashing technique to give a variation of tones in a more natural looking way; to do this I trimmed down a tough bristle brush and gently flicked the product onto the skin and prosthetic. This was really effective and made the piece look more realistic.

I had also made a cloak for my character to tie in with her back story or lurking in the shadows. This too was really effective as it only cost roughly around £3.00 to make. To find out how I made the cloak just click the following link for a tutorial
https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/12/22/making-cloaks-for-character-assessments/

Overall I am a little disappointed about the final look although I did get good feedback from tutors. If I was to do this again I would make my prosthetic out platinum silicone encased in Glatzan to make it easier to blend onto the skin thus creating a more realistic effect. I would also create a clay boarder around my sculpt and clamp my cast tighter to ensure thinner edges. However I now know what to do to overcome thick edges and have learned a great deal over this semester.

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Thanks for reading,
Katy x