MAC Demonstration

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Today we were lucky enough to get a demonstration for Caroline and Jimmy from MAC. Caroline demonstrated a up to date sun kissed look that we were all really excited about seeing as it was something new to the class. She also experimented with different products and used them in way I would have never imagined. I took advantage of meeting such a successful make-up artist in the industry and asked her a as many questions as I could think of and she happy to answer them.

Attending demonstrations like these have really benefited my learning as I feel inspired by the make-up creations along with the different uses of the products for example Caroline showed the class how to thicken MAC’s face and body to generate a thicker coverage which was something I have always struggled with. She worked the product onto the back of her hand until it become harder to move around and then applied it to the rosier parts of the skin.

This is the finished look:
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Thanks for reading 🙂 

Katy x

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Illamasqua Demo – Mika Johnson

Here is just a short post showing a few image from an Illamasqua demo the class had in January. Mika Johnson part of the Illamasqua key art team was a great demonstrator of the products and was willing to answer the millions of questions we had for him about the industry, his job working for Illamasqua and the products created the innovative cosmetics brand. He gave us loads of new idea’s and really encouraged us to go beyond the expected and push the boundaries of make-up artistry.

I thoroughly enjoyed the demo from Mika, it was incredibly inspiring to watch him play with colour as well as experimenting with different products and use them in ways I would never have thought of.  Here are the image from the demo hope you enjoy!

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Thanks for reading!

Katy x

 

Making Bald Caps

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In my last special effects lesson I started to create a bald cap which will be used in my final assessment in a month or so.  Here is how I did it..

To make the bald cap I used Cap-plastic (above) this is a very stick thick substance so I had to make sure I used a tough brush and had a cup of acetone near by to help dissolve the cap plastic in the brush bristles to prevent permanent damage to the brush.

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First I had measure my clients head using cling film and tape to create a rough size guide for me to follow when making the bald cap. I then marked it out on a plastic head. I next applied a light layer of petroleum jelly to the plastic head to make the removal of the cap easier at the end. I then applied a light dusting of loose powder before painting on the cap plastic. I painting the plastic starting from front to back in big long strokes to create a smooth surface. Once dry (allow around 5-10 minutes) I then applied another layer of the plastic starting from one side stretching over to the other to create a warp and weft effect to strengthen the plastic. I continued this process until I had applied 8-10 layers of cap plastic bringing in the layers each time to create a thinner edge. The many layers also ensures the bald cap would be strong enough to apply to my models head.

If I was to do this again I would like to practice at painting on thicker, neater and longer strokes with a bigger brush to make it a little neater. Due to deadline timing I wouldn’t have time to practice doing another bald cap which is a shame as I always like to have a back up plan if the first cap doesn’t work first time round. I was quite shocked at how simple making a bald cap was as it needs to be tough enough to stretch and cover the hair but it also has to have thin edges in order to blend the plastic into the natural skin surface. Considering this was my first time making a bald cap I think it went pretty well.

Any questions? Just ask!

Thanks for reading!

Katy x

Making Scar Trays

In my last lesson of Special effects I began making a scar tray to create prosthetics for my final assessment make-up look. These are a really good way in creating the same scar, cut or burn for an actor to kept continuity at its best as you can make several prosthetic pieces from the same cast. Here is some pictures to show the first few stages of the process..

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This was what I used for the sculpt I was going to turn into a scar tray.  I found this clay really hard and quite hard to work with however the more you warmed it up with you hands the easier it was to manipulate. Although it was possible to work with this clay I would refer to used a softer clay that is easier to use as it just made the process of sculpting longer and more difficult.

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To warm up the clay I rolled it into sausage shapes and rolled it through my hands to alter the consistency of the clay using my body temperature. Once I was happy with the smoothness of the clay I then was able to start sculpting.

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I placed the clay onto a smooth dry surface (I used a glass tile) I found it difficult to smooth the clay out so I used the handle of my sculpting tools to roll out the clay to get a smooth surface to make the sculpting that little bit easier.

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I made sure the edges of my sculpt blended into the glass surface to make applying the prostetic that much easier as I wouldn’t have t spend time blending away thick hard edges. Once I was happy with my sculpt I then used the same clay to build up a wall around it to prevent the plaster leaking over the edges and making a big mess. I unfortunately learned this the hard way when I was first experimenting with making pottery casts for my A levels. It was extremely messy!

Making the scar tray was simpler than expected however I did struggle with the toughness of the Newplast however I found that warming it up and rolling it out give better results as it prevented it from crumbling and tearing beneath my fingers. Overall I think this part of the process went quite well however the real test of the tray will be making the actual prosthetic and seeing how it applies to my model.

I’ll post later about the next stages of making scar trays after next weeks lesson!

Thanks for reading!

Katy x

Photoshop Image Editing – Changing Background Colour, Brightening Eyes, Smoothing Skin and Whitening Teeth

Hey! From my last work based learning lesson we were taught some great new editing skills which I thought I’d blog about because I found them extremely useful. I did struggle with this in lesson but I did get there eventually! I made lots of notes throughout lesson but even then I struggled to follow them when I read over them again so forgive me if this isn’t the clearest of tutorials.  If you have any questions just ask and I’ll see if I can be of any help to you. Here we go..

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(Original image source-http://mainstreampsychiatry.wordpress.com/category/celebrities-celebrities/)

First I began by removing any blemished or imperfections on the skin by using the clone and patch tool. This tool is also useful for removing glitter fall out which is common problem. The cloning tool takes part of the picture in which you have chosen and patches over it with that chosen part of the image creating a realistic cover-up of an mistake, spot, wrinkle or stray hair.

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To smooth out the skin I then duplicated the layer and applied a Gaussian blur filter. Then duplicated the layer again to darken and then  change the capacity to around 35%. Then I merged the layers and inverted then by pressing control. I next changed the capacity again to around 40%. Finally I used the brush to paint over the flat areas of the skin to add the blur to the image to hide any imperfections such as shine and the texture of the skin. I made sure not to go overboard with the bluring as it can distort the image too much if key features of the face are blurred too much. Once I was totally happy with the look of the skin I then could continue to play around with the image to see what else I could do to improve the image.

I also wanted to brighten the eyes and whiten the teeth ever so slightly for this I used a similar method which also consisted of duplicating layers adding filters inverting them and then painting over the layers to reveal parts of the filter. I also used this method for adding a more pinky toned lip colour.

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I also made the hair look a lot thicker by using the clone tool which made a huge difference to the image!

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To change the background of this image I used a very similar technique however I experimented with the hue and saturation in order to brighten up the background to make the image more appealing. I think this is a great technique to use as it make the woman in the picture stand out as the blue hue in the background is complementary to her ginger hair. I also edited this image using the same methods as above.

I’m so pleased with the result and I think these techniques will help me a lot in the industry for example I will be able to perfect my images for my portfolio. However I do believe using too much Photoshop is an easy option! So I do try to use it little as possible as I feel like I’m cheating a little haha!  Although I have been taught these methods on my course I do think airbrushing images has become a huge problem in the industry as it is creating an impossible polished image of the human body which is near enough impossible to obtain

Thanks for reading!

Katy x

Old Age Make-up For TV and Film

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I used a mixture of grease paints and eye shadows for this look as I wanted it to be subtle yet effective. I used the grease paint to give depth and the shadows to gently shade and contour the face. First I looked into how the face ages before adding any make-up to my face as I wanted to see where wrinkles take form. I then pull all kinds of silly facial expressions to find where my wrinkles would appear this was a huge help as I was able to position them properly.

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I then used a medium brown grease paint and painted the wrinkles in with a fine brush and blended with my fingers to make the lines less harsh. To make the lines stand out more I used a little white grease paint to act as a highlighter to give the wrinkles at 3D effect. I also added grey and a little amount of maroon under my eyes to give the appearance of dark circles as the skin becomes thinner with age so dark circles would be more visible.

I then used a fluffy angled brush and Virgin Vie eye shadow in beige brown to contour my cheeks chin forehead and jaw.  Finally I dabbed a tiny amount of red bruise gel onto the apples of my cheeks and around my nose to recreate broken capillarities under the skin as this is common with aging skin.

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Overall I’m very pleased with the final look considering I have never done an old age make-up before. This make-up would be more suitable for TV and film as it is subtle which is a good thing as the camera would not be able to pick up the make-up on HD productions however it is still visible enough to be effective. Next time I am going to try and do a ageing make-up suitable for theater which would need to be a lot darker much more pigmented to show up on stage as lighting tends to bleach out colour making it less visible to the audience.

If you have any questions don’t be afraid to ask, I’ll get back to you ASAP : )

Thanks for reading!

Katy x

Quick Stitched Up Cut Effect

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For this effect I used a combination of cheaper products to see if it was possible to still create an effective cut. I used a deep red lip liner,  a dark brown eyeliner and a small amount Snazaroo fake blood. First I began by using the red liner to draw on the desired shape of the cut. To give the cut a 3D effect I used the same red liner but applied the colour onto my finger and gently tapped on the colour to give the impression of distressed skin. I didn’t bring the colour right up to the line I created as this would make the cut look flat which was not what I wanted. I then I used a thin brush to apply a little about of fake blood before adding the brown eyeliner stitches. Overall I am quite pleased with how this come out considering the products I used were not exactly ideal. For a more technical stitched up laceration using wax, latex, wound filler and thread just click the following link.
https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/01/06/sewn-up-laceration-tutorial-derma-wax-liquid-latex/

Thanks for reading!

Katy x

Poor Edwardian Assessment

 

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Illamasqua Matte Primer – Buffed into cleansed and tones skin
MAC face and body C1 – apply lightly all over face and blend onto neck and ears
15 Concealer Palette – Subtly apply under eyes and conceal imperfections
MAC Blusher (Cubic) – Apply onto the apples of the cheeks in circular motion
Illamasqua Translucent Powder – Press onto skin using powder puff

Eyes:
MAC eye shadows:
Orb  – Dust lightly over lid with blending brush
Concrete –Lightly define eyebrows
Virgin Vie eyeshade (beige) – Apply to the eye crease to bring out the eyes.
Mac gel liner (Black track)- Apply thin line onto upper lash line.
Maybelline mascara (brown)  – Apply to upper and lower lashes to define lashes

Lips:
Body shop lipstick (15) – apply to the lips to give a rouged effect

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Poor Edwardian Assessment Evaluation

From my research I had realised I had to create a no make-up look for TV and film so the make-up barely visible on the skin as this would be picked up on camera especially in HD. I felt confident when beginning this assessment as I had previously created a none make-up look before however I had a minor setback with the products I intended to use which should have been solved during a practice run however I had not managed my time well enough to fit in trial run for this look.

Make-up:
Initially I was going to use MAC face and body as the base as it provides a very light base which would be ideal for a no make-up look as the product is barely visible on the skin when applied correctly.  However after I had applied a match test on my models face it was clear that this product was going to be far too dark for the desired look.  I then had to think quickly and substitute my product to get a better look which consisted of a paler base however the foundation (L’Oreal True match – fair) was a lot heavier and harder to work with as it was more visible on the skins surface which would be a distraction to the viewers if noticed on screen. Other than the base I was extremely pleased with the look.

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Hair:
For the hair I wanted to create a slicked back style that looked like it took little effort as poor Edwardians would not necessarily take pride in their hair as it would have be pulled back off the face for easiness.
I first pulled all the hair back into a ponytail and tried to create a chignon however the hair was too soft and kept slipping out of shape and layers were slightly shorted and started to poke out of the bun making it look a little too messy. To overcome this issue I backcombed the ponytail to get a little more texture in the hair to make it more manageable. I then had to ensure there was no fly away hairs visible by using a smoothing brush and plenty of hair spray.

Costume:For the character I created I wanted to have a poor Edwardian maid outfit which was luckily in the costume cupboard of the college. I felt this costume finished the look of nicely.

Feedback:
The feedback I got was relatively good however I need to work on making the base practically invisible to the eye as it would be easily picked up on camera. To do this it was advised that I worked the product into the skin a little more to try and buff away the excess. If I was to do this assessment again I would like to purchase face and body in a paler shade as it is the perfect consistency for a no make-up look it was just a shame the shade I had was too dark for my models skin tone.

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Thank you to my gorgeous model Hannah!

And thank you for reading! 

Katy x

Grecian Theater Assessment

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Face:
Illamasqua Matte Primer – Buffed into cleansed and tones skin
MAC Studio Tech (NC15) & Illamasqua white foundation – Buffed into skin for full flawless coverage
Collection 2000 Concealer (1 fair) – Apply under eyes to conceal imperfections
15 Concealer Palette – Conceal to any imperfections
15 Concealer Palette – Dark brown corrector to create a heavy contour down the side of the nose under the chin, cheek bones and jaw and blend into the neck. Also work a little of dark brown under the tip of the nose and into the temples and around the forehead to give the face definition.
15 Concealer Palette – Light peachy tones to use as highlighter on the top of the cheeks and jaw line, across the forehead down the nose and on the chin. Emphasis the eyebrows by using a lighter tone above the outer part of the brow and on the brow bone.
No 7 blusher (Coral Flush) – Apply in circular motion to cheek bones.
Illamasqua Translucent Powder – Press onto skin using powder puff

Eyes:
Benefit Stay Don’t Stray Eye Primer – Apply all over lid
MAC eye shadow:
Orb  – Apply all over lid up to brow bone
Concrete and Eara – Apply into crease.
Concrete –fill in and define eyebrows.
Virgin Vie Black eye shadow –  Darken brows further. Exaggerate natural shape and bring to almost touch above the nose.
Marry B eyeliner (white) –Apply to lower waterline to open out the eye further.
MAC Gel Eyeliner (Black Track) – Apply to the upper lash line with an angled small brush making it thicker towards the outer corner of the eye creating a slight flick to extend the eye. Also apply a thin line under the white greasepaint to recreate a lower lash line making the eye appear bigger.
Maybelline Colossal Lash (Black) Apply to upper lash lines.

Lips:
15 Concealer Palette – Apply a lighter tone to the top of the lips to define the shape making them look fuller. A darker tone can also be used under the bottom lip to plump up the look of bottom lip.
Virgin Vie Snapdragon – Apply lightly all over lips to create a lip stain look

Grecian Theater Evaluation

Overall I was extremely happy with my final look as I felt the contouring was strong enough to stand out from a distance which is necessary for a theatrical look. I felt a little rushed throughout the assessment as I had been ambitious with my design as I wanted to include a hair piece to the look to give the hair that little bit more height to give a better silhouette on stage. However I think it went well as I managed to get the look finished in time. If I was to do the assessment again I would maybe plan my time a little better and calm down before starting the assessment as I felt quite stressed and worried that I wasn’t going to get the look completed or be able to complete it to the standard I wanted.

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Make-up:
At first I was little confused as to which direction I should take my make-up look as I had noticed during my visual research that many make-up artists in TV and film had interpreted the Grecian look very differently as they had applied a very bronzed golden base which was not typically historically correct. From my research I had noticed that Grecian women were very fond of naturally pale looking skin as they used white lead washes and stayed out of direct sunlight whenever possible. So it was clear that I had to create a flawless pale base to my make-up look. I decided to practice the base prior to assessment to test which products would work best on my models skin. I was extremely glad I had done this as I created a base that was extremely pale by using a combination of Snazaroo white face paint and illamasqua white foundation base which had given me a ghostly white look which was far too pale for the Grecian ear as it was beginning to look like a different era such as 18th Century. For my next trail run I decided to stay clear of white based products and use a foundation that was a few shades paler than my models skin. This gave me a much better result as it was much for suited to the era and allowed the contouring and highlighting to stand out more. Unfortunately I had forgotten to take pictures of the first trial run however I have displayed images of the second practice of the theatrical base in my research. I also wanted to practice the eyebrow shape on my model as it was a key aspect to the Grecian make-up as big eyebrows meeting just above the nose was a very desirable feature to have. I didn’t seem to have a problem with the eyebrow shape as I spent a lot of time perfecting the shape to ensure the brows were strong enough for a theatrical look.
I had tried to research Grecian theatre productions however I was unable to find any visuals so I had to use my knowledge from the theatrical make-up assessment in semester one to try and adapt my Grecian look into a theatrical dramatic make-up in order to highlight the facial features and make the eyes appear that little bit bigger.
During the assessment time I completed the full make-up look whilst the heated rollers were setting to save me time in the long run as I wanted to spend a lot of time on the hair as it was a key part to the look. Overall I am extremely happy with the final look as I feel the contouring was strong enough and picked out the facial features well enough for a Grecian Theatrical look.

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Hair:
At first I was not confident in creating a historically correct Grecian style hair however after my research I had a better idea on what the style should look like as I had managed to gather some decent reference images and information. However I had to be careful not to blur historic references with modern interpretations of the style as it is still a very popular every day look. I mainly focused my research on statues from the era along with written information on what was popular at the time as I didn’t want to base my look on someone else’s interpretation of the era. During my research I had noticed that there were very different interpretations of the Grecian look as it had been adapted for film and TV for example a lot of the images included modern hair styled into Grecian looks which helped me a little as that was what I needed to do as my model had previously dyed her hair in a ombre style which was in the process of growing out. To combat this problem I tried my best to tuck away the unnatural colour to make my look more believable.

I have never worked with a hair piece before so was a little apprehensive as to what it would turn out like so I decided to have a practice run on attaching it to my models head before the actual assessment. During the test run I realised that I would have to add texture to the synthetic hair piece beforehand to make it easier to blend into my models natural hair. I then added pin curls to the hair piece and left it to dry over two days to ensure it was completely dry. This gave me a great result as I ended up with bouncy natural looking curls which would work perfectly with my models hair as I intended to use heated rollers to give texture, volume and curl to her hair.

When it came to doing the hair on assessment I was worried about the time frame given as I had to perfect the hair and make-up of my model which had taken me a long time during the practice runs as I also had to apply a full head of heated rollers and style the hair. However I had previously practice the roller set a few times before so was able to do it quite quickly. Overall I was extremely happy with the hair as the hair piece blended well and the heated rollers had taken to the hair extremely well as they created a natural looking bouncy curl.

Costume:
As part of my research I had looked into Grecian fashion which largely helped inspire me to create a costume to go alongside my look. I had decided to buy a couple of metres of gold tinted fabric to drape over my model to help tie in the hair accessory I intended to use. I also used a long length of white fabric to drape over my model to recreate a toga I then pinned it into place to ensure it was secure before I had lead my model to be finally assessed.

Feedback:
I was extremely happy and surprised with the feedback as it was largely positive which was a huge relief. I was praised on my research, brown shape and positioning, highlighting and contouring and lip colour. Lisa said I had done really well and should be pleased with the final result.

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 To read more posts about this look just click the following links..

https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/03/22/wet-setting-synthetic-hair-pieces-grecian-theater-assessment/

https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/03/22/grecian-theater-hair-practice/

Theater Contouring Tutorial:
https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2013/01/08/large-theatre-make-up/

Thanks for reading! 

Katy x