In the make-up industry understanding the structure and muscles of the face is key. After a lecture on the anatomy of the face and body we were asked to create a make-up look showing our understanding either the bones or muscles of the face. For my look I used a combination of Kryolan grease paints, Snazaroo face paint and black eye shadow. Here is some images of my anatomy inspired looks.
This was the look I created in class however I wasn’t happy with how it turned out as I didn’t have all the products with me that I would have liked to use. Below is an image from a past work experience which personally I think was more effective. If I was to do this look again I would like to experiment with different products in order to get a better result as the black eye shadow I used in class had a blue undertone which was showing up on the white base.
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For this make-up I wanted my model to look as rough and haggard as possible so I began by using a light greasepaint to pail out my models complexion to make her look dull and ill, I made sure not to cover any natural imperfections on the skin such as blemishes and dark circles as they would only add to the look.
Next used both (Kryolan) grease paints and beige powders around the eyes of my model make her look tired and worn out. I first began by smudging grey and maroon greasepaint under the eyes to recreate heavy bagged eyes. I then applied a small amount of red greasepaint to the upper and lower lids to make the eyes look sore and tired. Finally I used dark beige powders to hollow out the eyes by following the natural shape of the socket. I also used this colour to contour the face to make my model look gaunt and skinny. For this I used an angled brush to apply the colour to the face in small amounts to build up colour gradually.
I then began applying mold gel to the face. First I mixed equal amounts of pots A and B together on the back of my hand to activate the product then used the end of a brush to apply it to the parts of the face such as the lips and forehead to create cold sores(herpes) and ulcers. Once the gel had dried I then was able to apply red and maroon greasepaints to make inflamed looking sores on the face. I also added a small amount of Tuplast to the lip to create a blistered effect.
To make the lips look chapped from dehydration and cold I applied a thin layer of Vaseline (to protect the lips from the the next product) I finally added a small layer of Rigid Collodion to the lips which creates the flaked shin effect.
Overall I am extremely happy with this look as I think it is extremely effective and would be perfect for TV or film work. I think this make-up is subtle however the camera picks it up extremely well, to edit this look into a theatrical make-up I would have to use a lot more make-up as on stage the lights tend to bleach out the colour which can be detrimental to the character as they will appear to have no make-up on at all.
This was my first ever attempt at using Skin Illustrators and BlueBird Inks however I am very pleased with the finished effect. At first I found the product quite strange to work with as I am used to using greasepaint to create these types of effects. The Skin illustrators are activated with Isopropyl Alcohol which is added into each section of colour using a small spray bottle. Once activated you can then begin to build up watery layers of colour onto the skin to create the desired effect. One of the reasons I liked working with these is due to the fact they give a no makeup look on the skins surface as they are not as heavy as greasepaints. I also really like how you can build up the colour gradually, if mistakes are made the Isopropyl Alcohol can be used to erase layers of the colour.
First I began by applying a light wash of red Skin Illustrator to the inner bend of the elbow to simulate irritation to the skin. I then used a small brush to paint dots were I want the entry wounds of the needle (I added more detail later on). I then used my own visible veins to act as a guide for both positioning and the colour match. I used a combination of a teal green, grey and a hint of red to simulate faint swollen veins.
Once I was happy with the veins I then went back to creating the needle entry wounds, for this I used a combination of purples and reds to make the skin look irritated and poisoned. I also used a small drop of Mehron’s Rigid Collodion to create a scabbed effect. Rigid Collodion tightens the skin creating a crusted skin effect however it can also be used for scar recreation if built up in layers.
From my research I think this product is extremely good to create a very realistic looking effect that is easy to recreate. Although Skin Illustrator and Blue Bird inks are pricey they are still extremely popular in the industry due to their quality and easy use. This product is also used for prosthetic work as the colour is extremely easy to build up making it looks more realistic as undertone colours can be added. The make-up also shows up well in photographs so it would be perfect for film or TV work, to make this a theatrical makeup the colours would have to be more intense and a lot darker as the lights on stage would bleach the colour out making the effect near invisible to the audience.
I started by applying Kryolan grease paint in 074 with a flat foundation brush. This colour eliminated any redness in my skin which left me with a very grey dull looking skin tone. I then used a dark grey grease paint (517) from the same pallet to contour my cheeks, chin, jaw and forehead. I then used a white grease paint (070) to highlight the top of my cheeks to make the contouring stand out further. I also heavily applied the white to the top of my brow bone to make my face look sunken in. I also used the grey and a maroon colour to shade under and around my eyes.
Once I was happy with the shading and highlighting I then moved onto the vein detail. For this is used a fine brush and used a mixture of grey, maroon and green and drew on dark fine veins around the eyes and forehead. Finally I applied a red eyeliner to complete the base. Then your free to add any wounds, scares and blood and guts to finish off the zombie make-up!
This was the first time I have used grease paints for this kind of makeup as I used to using Snazaroo face paint which does the trick but is harder to blend and shade. This make-up could be used for both TV/film and theatrical work as it is very dramatic and effective. You could also set this grease paint base with a translucent powder for more staying power.
Any questions? Just ask!
Thanks for reading!