Covering imperfections with the colour theory correction method

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Correction work is a key skill needed to execute a clear skin base for and makeup look. Everyone would love to have perfect skin however this is not always the case as some clients may suffer from blemishes, acne or have birthmarks that they are unhappy with. Many marks or discolouration on the skin could all be dimmed down or even camouflaged with the correct colour theory correction work. For example a common misconception of corrective work is that when you have a red toned blemish you should use a paler concealer to dim down the dark red coloured to try and match it with your own skin colour, however this is not the case as lighter colours bring aspects of the face forwards making the eye see it that part first therefore making it look more prominent. Using warmer peachy based colours to cover the blemish would be more beneficial as it sends the blemish into the background rather than highlighting it with a bright concealer. Green colour correctors could also aid the coverage of a red blemish as green based products conceal reddish tones in the skin.

How do you figure out the which colour correcter to use?

ImageUsing a colour wheel is an easy way to figure out which colour cancels out another for example as I mentioned earlier green cancels out red, looking at the colour wheel you can see that they are both positioned opposite each other on the colour wheel. This works for other discolorations found in the skin for example dark blue or purple circles under the eyes can be combatted by using warmer peachy tones as they are opposite the blue section on the colour wheel.

Many makeup brands are now bringing out corrective primers which can also aid the correction of the skin for example for yellowy sallow skin purple primers can help. For reddish tones in the skin green primers can dull down the redness. For dull skin yellow based primers or powders can be added to the skin which makes the skin look brighter and healthier.

Before you apply any correction products to the skin you must always have a really good look at the clients bare skin and pick out what parts of the face need to be worked on and what correction colours you are going to need. Once the clients skin is cleanser toned and moisturised you can begin. For more details on cleansing and toning the skin click the flowing link to view a more in depth description =] https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2012/10/19/cleansing-toning-and-moisturising/

Looking at my client’s bare skin I can see that she has some slight imperfections I could go ahead and conceal those before adding any foundation or I could add the base primer and foundation and then see what the foundation has failed to cover up.  On my client I used a matte illamasqua matte primer which I buffed into the skin followed by MAC studio Tech (NC37). As my client uses spray tan I made it that much more difficult to match the correct colour foundation for her skin as I had to also take into consideration the colour of her neck as it all has to blend in nicely together. To blend the two skin tones together I buffed the Studio Tech down onto my client’s neck and ears to soften the contrast.

Again I studied my clients face to see what aspects I could improve on. I had noticed that my client had a couple of blemishes on her forehead so I looked at the colour wheel figure out what would work best to cover them up. I used a small fluffy blending brush to work a small amount of green colours corrector into the skin then applied a warm peachy toned concealer over the top making sure it blended in with the rest of the skin.

Once I had concealed my client’s blemishes I then looked at the eye area to see what needed to be done. My client doesn’t have much discolouration under and around her eyes so I only used a little amount of peachy toned concealer to brighten the area up a little. If my client had dark grey or brown tones around the eyes a dark pink could be gently worked into the skin with a fluffy blending brush to hide the look of tired eyes.

Next I added a yellowy toned concealer under and above the brow bone and around the natural lip line to make them stand out a little more. I had to make sure that I blended it in well as it may look too bright at first. Some people often have shadows around the lips that can make the lips look sunken into the face. Brighter colours can bring features to the foreground as they highlight and emphases features of the face creating an optical illusion as the eye sees the brighter shades first. Finally I used a MAC powder puff to press Illamasqua translucent powder onto the face by using a rolling movement. I then used a medium flat brush to gently press a small amount of powder under the eyes to prevent the concealer products from creasing or moving.

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The concealer palette I used throughout is by a company called fraulein and cost me around £6 from Amazon.com

Hope this helps as much as its helped me!

Katy xx

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3 thoughts on “Covering imperfections with the colour theory correction method

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