Gelatin Hypertrophic Scaring

(Image source  –www.skinlaser.com)

 Hypertrophic scaring occurs when the skin produces too much collagen which makes the skin raised up and creates a dark pigmented scar that can eventually fade in colour over time. There are many different causes of hypertrophic scaring such as body piercings, burns and common skin conditions such as ache. Hypertrophic scars often limits the skins elasticity as it creates a tight shiny surface over the damaged skin to close up the wound to protect from infection.

(Image source – wikipedia.org)

The following technique would be really easy to adapt into a  Freddy Krueger look for a Halloween!

The first step is to melt the gelatin in a microwave until it is melted through and ready to work with. If you put your gelatin onto a tin tray this allows you to reheat the gelatin with a hair dryer or heat gun if needed as it does tend to set quite quickly.

After the gelatin has cooled slightly it is then ready to work with as you have to take health and safety into consideration to prevent your client getting burned by the melted gelatin. once cool use your finger to apply the gelatin onto the skin by dragging it from the outside in to get a smooth edge but still create the raised up texture in the centre.

Once it the gelatin has set you can then begin adding the grease paint (Kryolan B Pallet).  I began by adding a tiny amount of red to give the gelatin a pink tinge before adding a little amount of blue. Then you’re done! Simple as that! It’s also really easy to remove too, just use warm soapy water.

Katy xx 

Making Gelatin

To make a large batch you will need:
-Microwavable plastic bowl or round container
-Wooden spoon or wooden lolly stick
-3 Plastic cups
-Microwave
-Weighing scales
-Access to cold water
-Ice-cube tray (optional)
-250g of Gelatin Crystals
-200g of Glycerin (Glycerol)
-Johnson’s Talcum Powder
-Red Flocking

Health and Safety:
When making gelatin its vital you take into consideration all the health and safety risks for example  the gelatin can get quite hot throughout the process so make sure you have access to cold water in case of thermal injuries. Make sure the floor and work surfaces are clear and dry to avoid accidents when carrying the hot mixture. Also be aware of water around electrical appliances and plug sockets etc.

 

First thing you need to do is measure out your 250g of Gelatin Crystals in the mixing bowl not forgetting to cancel out the weight of the bowl when measuring as this may change the recipe and the consistency of your gelatin.
Next add a little amount of COLD water at a time to the crystals making sure to mix (wooden spoon or lolly stick) as you go, continue this process until you have an apple sauce consistency. It is important to add only a little amount of water at a time as you can always add more if you need to but can never take back what you’ve already put in. It is also very important that you only use cold water as warm water can melt the crystals when mixing which can cause the mixture to change into a doughy consistency which is harder to work with (I found this out the hard way.. =[ )
Next you can begin to melt the mixture – Place the bowl into the microwave for 1.30 minutes on a medium heat mixing around 3 times during this time to help smooth out the mixture. At this point the mixture should be smooth with little or no lumps.

Now measure out 200g of glycerin in a plastic and pour into the bowl and mix several times until you have a gooey stringy looking consistency this is often used in the industry as alien or monster goo/slim due to its disgusting slimy looking texture, colourants are simply added and there you have the perfect disgusting alien goo! Yuk! Anyways.. back to gelatin making! You now need to stick the bowl back into the microwave for no more than a minute at a time as you could burn the gelatine which you done want to do because it smelts disgusting! (I also learned that the hard way too) The reason for reheating the mixture is to further smooth out an of the lumps so make sure you mix in between at least every 30 seconds.

Next make you powder paste by mixing an inch of talcum powder with a little cold water to make a thick tooth paste consistency next add around 1-2 tea spoons of this mixture into the gelatine to make the mixture more translucent and skin toned. You may only need a tiny amount dependent on your mixture so far. Some cheaper brands of talcum powder can course your gelatin to turn green but Johnson’s works perfectly!

Finally add a small pinch of red flocking to the mixture again you can always add more if you need to. Finally give the gelatin a good mix then leave to set. Then you’re done!

Handy tips!
You could also pour the gelatin into ice-cube trays as this is easier to keep in your kit at all times and takes half the time to melt!
Make sure you store your gelatin in a cool dry place away from direct sunlight.

Covering imperfections with the colour theory correction method

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Correction work is a key skill needed to execute a clear skin base for and makeup look. Everyone would love to have perfect skin however this is not always the case as some clients may suffer from blemishes, acne or have birthmarks that they are unhappy with. Many marks or discolouration on the skin could all be dimmed down or even camouflaged with the correct colour theory correction work. For example a common misconception of corrective work is that when you have a red toned blemish you should use a paler concealer to dim down the dark red coloured to try and match it with your own skin colour, however this is not the case as lighter colours bring aspects of the face forwards making the eye see it that part first therefore making it look more prominent. Using warmer peachy based colours to cover the blemish would be more beneficial as it sends the blemish into the background rather than highlighting it with a bright concealer. Green colour correctors could also aid the coverage of a red blemish as green based products conceal reddish tones in the skin.

How do you figure out the which colour correcter to use?

ImageUsing a colour wheel is an easy way to figure out which colour cancels out another for example as I mentioned earlier green cancels out red, looking at the colour wheel you can see that they are both positioned opposite each other on the colour wheel. This works for other discolorations found in the skin for example dark blue or purple circles under the eyes can be combatted by using warmer peachy tones as they are opposite the blue section on the colour wheel.

Many makeup brands are now bringing out corrective primers which can also aid the correction of the skin for example for yellowy sallow skin purple primers can help. For reddish tones in the skin green primers can dull down the redness. For dull skin yellow based primers or powders can be added to the skin which makes the skin look brighter and healthier.

Before you apply any correction products to the skin you must always have a really good look at the clients bare skin and pick out what parts of the face need to be worked on and what correction colours you are going to need. Once the clients skin is cleanser toned and moisturised you can begin. For more details on cleansing and toning the skin click the flowing link to view a more in depth description =] https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2012/10/19/cleansing-toning-and-moisturising/

Looking at my client’s bare skin I can see that she has some slight imperfections I could go ahead and conceal those before adding any foundation or I could add the base primer and foundation and then see what the foundation has failed to cover up.  On my client I used a matte illamasqua matte primer which I buffed into the skin followed by MAC studio Tech (NC37). As my client uses spray tan I made it that much more difficult to match the correct colour foundation for her skin as I had to also take into consideration the colour of her neck as it all has to blend in nicely together. To blend the two skin tones together I buffed the Studio Tech down onto my client’s neck and ears to soften the contrast.

Again I studied my clients face to see what aspects I could improve on. I had noticed that my client had a couple of blemishes on her forehead so I looked at the colour wheel figure out what would work best to cover them up. I used a small fluffy blending brush to work a small amount of green colours corrector into the skin then applied a warm peachy toned concealer over the top making sure it blended in with the rest of the skin.

Once I had concealed my client’s blemishes I then looked at the eye area to see what needed to be done. My client doesn’t have much discolouration under and around her eyes so I only used a little amount of peachy toned concealer to brighten the area up a little. If my client had dark grey or brown tones around the eyes a dark pink could be gently worked into the skin with a fluffy blending brush to hide the look of tired eyes.

Next I added a yellowy toned concealer under and above the brow bone and around the natural lip line to make them stand out a little more. I had to make sure that I blended it in well as it may look too bright at first. Some people often have shadows around the lips that can make the lips look sunken into the face. Brighter colours can bring features to the foreground as they highlight and emphases features of the face creating an optical illusion as the eye sees the brighter shades first. Finally I used a MAC powder puff to press Illamasqua translucent powder onto the face by using a rolling movement. I then used a medium flat brush to gently press a small amount of powder under the eyes to prevent the concealer products from creasing or moving.

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The concealer palette I used throughout is by a company called fraulein and cost me around £6 from Amazon.com

Hope this helps as much as its helped me!

Katy xx

Scratch – using Snazaroo wax, face paint and basic matte eye shadows

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This look was simply an experiment so it may not be the easiest or correct way to use the products but I think it worked out okay in the end. When I was playing around with the look I had a werewolf scratch in mind however I recently adapted this technique into a slit throat effect which worked quite well as the products I used are very durable and flexible. I also recently carried out a similar method but using liquid latex on a client who was attending a Halloween party as ‘little dead riding hood’ which worked well with the whole concept.  I’ll do a post about that later on in my Work Experience section for you to have a nosey at if you’d like to  =]

 

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I began by using a red lip liner to define the shape of each scratch to help guide me when applying the wax. Once I was happy with the shape of the scratches I then introduced the wax by scraping some of it out of the pot with the backend of a brush as I didn’t have a spatula handy and rolled it into thin sausage shapes and applied it along the red guide line. Once I had framed the scratch I then used my fingers to blend the wax outwards. You could also use a little spatula to blend the wax  as it may be easier as the wax can be very sticky once it has warmed up with the body’s temperature  Once I have happy with the blending of the wax I then used Snazaroo red face paint to paint the inside of the scratch as a base coat of paint.

Next I added depth by using the black in the centre of the scratches as black makes it look more indented as darker colours such as blacks and browns are often used to shade areas of the face to be smaller or more defined for example, a soft grey can be used to hollow out the cheeks on a zombie look. To bring any features of the makeup further forwards you may want to apply lighter colours as it stands out more so the eye sees it first creating an illusion of 3D depth.  However I didn’t use any highlighting on this look as I felt the wax was pale enough and I didn’t want to diminish the flesh colour of the wax as I thought it worked rather well.

Next I focused on the shading around the scratches as I wanted to make it look infected and a little swollen. For this I used a combination of matte eye shadows, I used:  red, burgundy, beige and brown around the wax as I didn’t want to use it over the wax as it was acting as a highlighter as well as imitating torn peeled skin. I also used these colours to make the rest of my face dirty and ill from the infection.

Next I applied a thin coverage of lash adhesive into the middle of the scratch a left it for a few seconds to get tacky. Once the glue was sticky I placed a little cotton wool to add texture. I then I worked over the cotton wool with the Snazaroo red and black face paint. For a final touch I used a dark red lips gloss to replicate blood. You could always make your own fake blood from the recipe I recently learned in a special effects lesson just click the following link. https://kathrenelizabethmakeup.wordpress.com/2012/10/20/fake-blood/

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To Remove: oil based cleansers or Ben Nye’s Bond Off

Fashion Assessment – (Monochromatic Lips)

Gothic Fashion final look

Face:
Illamasqua matt Primer – Buffed into cleansed and tones skin
MAC Studio tech (NC15) – Buff into skin using medium sized flat buffing brush.
15 Concealer Palette – Conceal imperfections that the Face and Body has failed to cover by using the colour correctors and peach based concealers.
MAC Bronzer – Contour and shape the face using an angled brush, Apply to the hollows of the cheek, temples and under the jaw line.
Illamasqua Translucent Powder – Press onto skin using powder puff to set the foundation base.

Eyes:
Benefit Stay Don’t Stray Eye Primer – Apply all over lid up to brow.
Rimmel eye liner (white) – create a guild line for the white.
Snazaroo face paint (white) – Fill in the white outline you have previously created with the white pencil.
Virgin Vie eye shadow (white) – Apply all over lid using a flat medium sized brush to set the face paint to prevent movement.
Rimmel Black liquid eye liner – Create a second waterline by lining the edge of the white Snazaroo paint underneath the eyes. Also draw a new crease on the eyelids slightly higher than the natural crease.
Virgin Vie eye shadow (Black) – use a small fluffy brush to apply a small amount onto the liner once dried to soften the harsh line.
Maybelline Colossal Lash (Black) – Apply a thin coat to upper lash line.

Brows:
MAC lip liner (Cherry) – to draw on the exaggerated brow shape.

Lips:
15 Concealer Palette – Apply a lighter concealer to cupids bow to make the lips look fuller.
MAC lip liner (Cherry) – follow natural lip line.
W7 (Burgundy) – Apply to outer corners of the lips
Rimmel Kate Moss collection (111 Kiss of life) – Apply to centre of the lips and blend into the darker W7 lipstick using a lip brush.

Gothic fashion piece

Gothic fashion final pieceThanks for reading 🙂

Katy xx

Liquid latex burn using Snazaroo face paint and basic matte eye shadows

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(Click the images to enlarge)

combinedFor this technique I started by using a latex sponge to stipple latex onto my cheek and forehead. I applied around five coats using a hair dryer to dry each layer in between. I had to be careful around the eye area as the latex gives off fumes whilst it is drying which can cause irritation to the eye causing the eye to weep. I also had to be careful when I was applying the latex near the hairline as latex can be very difficult and painful to remove from hair so sear clear of eye brows and sideburns too!

Once the latex was completely dry I then used a small pair of scissors to pierce tiny holes in the latex, You can also use a simple toothpick to do this. As I have not powdered the latex it still looks quite shiny and sticks to itself once tore or cut so I decided to take advantage of this by pulling the edges of the hole I had just made and sticking it to another part of the latex making the skin look melted.

Once I was happy with the manipulation of the latex I then began to add colour. As this was my first attempted at using liquid latex I was not sure what materials worked best on the sticky shiny surface so I decided to experiment with matte eye shadows first. I began by filling in the holes with a burgundy red and a deep purple which added a little more depth to the open wounds. Next I used Snazaroo red face paint and a latex sponge to stipple a small amount of paint onto the latex to give the skin a very raw and painful feel.  I also used Snazaroo black face paint to deepen the red slightly as it looked a little too vibrant. Black could also be used to suggest soot by blending small amounts around the wound and blending it out to give a feathery shaded effect however be careful when blending over the outer line of the latex as it can make the line between the latex and your skin more prominent.

Finally I added a little clear cheap lip gloss to give the wound a shine making it look weeping and sore. Blisters tend to have a sheen on them as the the skin bubbles and stretches to create a cushioned surface to protect the deeper layers of skin underneath. Blisters are usually filled with bodily fluids such as serum or plasm or even blood. Instead of lip gloss you could also use KY jelly, clear cheap hair gel or petroleum jelly. I used lip gloss simply because it was all I had at the time as I was just experimenting but it worked out okay and its a pretty cheap option! =]

lklskdnTo remove the latex you could use an oil based remover such as Ben Nye’s Bond Off or simply use warm soapy water in between the latex and your own skin and peel gently. Or you could do it the painful way like me and just peel it off like me but I don’t advise it because it hurts!